We’re on the road again, this time to South America. So what happens now? It’s another suitcase in another hall, starting in Argentina, the land of tango and beef and wine and Evita. We used Buenos Aires as our base for three or four weeks and made side trips to other parts of this long, narrow country.

One of our two new favorite airlines, Aerolineas Argentinas (and LAN)

If you wonder whether Evita Peron is reviled or revered in modern Argentina, there is no doubt here in BA. She rose from the slums as an actress before becoming the young wife of a somewhat nasty president, Juan Peron. After climbing (some would say sleeping) her way to the top of the country, she was a passionate champion for the poor, underprivileged, children, and working women. Although she died young, she left behind a tremendous legacy.

Our first glimpse of Evita, larger than life size, but no larger than her presence in the hearts of her countrymen.

Our first stop in the city was to get money. Walking along Florida Street, every 10 feet or so we heard someone say “Cambio. Cambio” under his breath. At least 30 of these moneychangers were operating on the street. We found that we couldn’t even change money at a bank, but the cambio men offered better deals than ATMs. Local residents are anxious to get US dollars. In fact, our travels here came at a good time. The exchange rate has changed by over 50 percent in our favor between December and now. From the time we got here on January 9 we’ve seen a continued climb…and the money kept rolling in.

The primary neighborhood where we stayed (and returned several times) is Recoleta. We settled in and found our favorite confiteria for delicious cookies, a movie theater (The Big Short in English with subtitles sold out!), and easy walks to museums and galleries.

This statue of Evita in Recoleta is now fenced in, but it captures some of her dynamic spirit.

Recoleta is known for Cementerio Recoleta, a huge cemetery, one of the world’s best according to BBC and CNN. This is a beautiful, peaceful spot for morning walks. Many of the mausoleums are small upright cubes with stairs descending to crypts holding the dead.

View of Cementerio Recoleta from our hotel rooftop.

Eva Peron is buried here. When her husband was running for reelection in 1951, she was so high-flying, adored that the common people. or descamisados (shirtless ones), urged her to be his running mate. But she developed cancer and died in 1952 at age 33. Just as she was adored during her lifetime, she is honored more than 60 years later by hordes who visit her grave.

The María Eva Duarte de Perón mausoleum, the most visited site in Recoleta Cementerio.

Some crypts are ornate with numerous religious artifacts.

Others portray the occupant as he was or wished to have been.

Buenos Aires has many parks. One particularly beautiful section of Palermo Woods is the Rosedal, with roses, obviously, and also palm trees, a large white arbor and bridge, and statues of poets.

Beautiful Rosedal inside this city of 3,000,000 people.

Another “flower” is Floralis Generica at the United Nations Plaza. Its petals spread from about 50 feet when closed to 100 feet when open during the day.

Tango is everywhere in BA, in the parks, on the streets, and of course on stage.

The “Broadway” of Buenos Aires has tango theaters one after the other.

We attended a show with a dozen dancers and a dozen musicians. Accordion is an important part of the performance.

On weekends many al fresco restaurants have dancers who pass a hat around to collect tips after their informal shows.

Others seem to tango for pure joy.

Buenos Aires, she is a diamond. As Tim Rice wrote:

You’re a tramp, you’re a treat
You will shine to the death, you are shoddy
But you’re flesh, you are meat,
You shall have every breath in my body

The heart of the arts center of Buenos Aires.

The city appears to have constant demonstrations.

We didn’t quite make it to the balcony of La Casa Rosada where the heroine of Evita sang don’t cry for me, Argentina, but we gazed at it from the front, outside a  tall fence. Unlike the US White House, this official residence doesn’t have a grand lawn.

La Casa Rosada, the Pink House, of the Argentinean government

Grandchildren of the people of the age of Evita.

If you’re wondering why all the hyperlinks, it’s because they will take you to songs from Evita (music by Andrew Lloyd Weber Evita and lyrics by Tim Rice). In the early 1980s on one of our first trips together, we (Michael and Nancy) went to New York and saw Evita on Broadway. Great show then, with a few memories to help us navigate this part of our trip.

Good night and thank you!

We’re on to a new Argentina next, or at least a new spot for us.